How to Buy a Computer in 2026 (And When Not To)
By Ricky Browning · Browning PC, Valdosta, GA
Most people who think they need a new computer don’t. A slow machine that still boots is usually neglected, not dying, and a cleanup fixes it for a fraction of what a new one costs. Buy new only when the hardware is failing, it cannot run the software you need, or a repair costs more than the machine is worth.
I’ve talked more people out of buying a new computer than into one. That is an odd thing for a computer guy to admit, but it’s true, and it’s a big part of why folks around Valdosta keep my number. So before we get to what to buy, let’s figure out whether you need to buy anything at all.
Is your computer actually dying, or just neglected?
Here is the pattern I see over and over. A computer gets slow. Nobody can say exactly when it started. Somebody at the store says it’s old and the fix is a new one. And the whole time, the actual problem was a drive packed full, a dozen programs launching at startup, a browser loaded with junk, or an old spinning hard drive that was never fast to begin with.
Neglect looks like this:
- It takes minutes to boot, but it does boot.
- Everything works, just slowly, and the slowness came on gradually.
- The storage is nearly full.
- Pop-ups, toolbars, or a browser that goes somewhere you didn’t ask for. If that sounds familiar, read the signs your computer has a virus before you spend a dime on hardware.
- It still has a spinning hard drive instead of a solid-state drive.
Real hardware trouble looks different:
- It won’t power on, or it shuts itself off under load.
- The hard drive clicks or grinds, or files start coming up corrupted.
- Blue screens that point at memory or the drive, not at a program.
- A cracked screen, a broken hinge, a swollen battery, or a charging port that only works at one angle.
- It cannot run something you genuinely need for work or school, and no amount of cleanup will change that.
The first list is a cleanup. The second list is a repair decision, and sometimes a replacement. Most of what comes through my door is the first list. It’s the same story I told in my rundown of the tech problems I see most in Valdosta homes and offices, and it hasn’t changed.
Not sure which list you’re on?
That is what the $30 diagnostic is for. I look at the machine, tell you plainly what is wrong and what it would cost to fix, and the $30 comes off the repair if you go ahead. If the honest answer is that it’s time to replace it, I’ll tell you that too, and you’re out $30 instead of a bad guess. Call 229-561-1674, Monday through Friday, 9am to 5pm.
| Clean up the one you have | Buy new | |
|---|---|---|
| What it costs | A $30 diagnostic, credited toward the work, plus labor at my published rates. Sometimes a solid-state drive on top of that. | The computer, plus setup and moving your files ($350 flat with me), plus whatever the store adds at the register. |
| When it makes sense | It boots and runs, it’s just slow. The drive is full, it’s got junk on it, or it still has a spinning hard drive. The hardware underneath is sound. | The hardware is failing. It cannot run the software you need. It cannot take Windows 11 and you don’t want to live on borrowed time. Or the repair would cost more than the machine is worth. |
| When it doesn’t | The drive is dying, the board is bad, or you’d be sinking real money into something that will need replacing next year anyway. | The only complaint is speed and nobody has tried a cleanup yet. Or it’s a few years old and doing everything you ask of it. Wanting a new one is a fine reason; just know that’s the reason. |
| What you keep | Everything. Your files, your programs, your printer setup, the way you have it arranged. | A fresh start, which is nice, but every file, password and program has to be moved over or set up again. |
Do you have to replace a Windows 10 machine?
No. This is the question I’ve been asked most since last fall, so let me be exact about it.
Windows 10 reached end of support on October 14, 2025. Microsoft’s own position is that those PCs keep working. What stops is the security updates and technical support, which Microsoft says leaves the machine “at a greater risk for viruses and malware.” That is a real risk and I don’t want to wave it off. But nothing shut down that day, and anyone who told you otherwise was selling something.
You have three honest paths:
1. Move it to Windows 11, if it qualifies
Windows 11 needs a processor from Microsoft’s approved list running at 1 GHz or better with at least two cores, 4 GB of memory, 64 GB of storage, UEFI firmware with Secure Boot, a TPM 2.0 chip, DirectX 12 graphics, and a 720p screen bigger than 9 inches. In my shop it is usually the processor list or the TPM 2.0 chip that fails the check, not the memory. If your machine passes, the upgrade is a normal afternoon of work and you keep using what you already own.
2. Buy time with Extended Security Updates
Microsoft’s consumer Extended Security Updates program is still open as I write this, and it now runs through October 12, 2027. Enrolling is free if you let the PC sync its settings to a Microsoft account, or you can spend 1,000 Microsoft Rewards points, or pay $30 once. One license covers up to 10 devices on the same account, which matters for a house with several computers. The machine needs to be on Windows 10 version 22H2. You get security updates and nothing else — no new features, no technical support. It is a bridge, not a destination, but it is a real bridge.
3. Replace it, on your schedule
If it fails the Windows 11 check and you’d rather not lean on a stopgap, then yes, it’s time. But you get to pick the month. Enroll in the security updates, watch for a good machine, and buy when it suits your budget instead of the store’s. Windows 11 has its own support timeline too, and I covered what Windows 11 end of support means for older PCs separately.
What specs actually matter in 2026?
Fewer than the spec sheet wants you to think. Here is what I look at, in order.
Memory: 16 GB
Microsoft’s official minimum for Windows 11 is 4 GB. Microsoft’s own Copilot+ PC label requires 16 GB. That gap tells you everything. The minimum is what boots; 16 GB is what Microsoft itself thinks a modern machine needs. I would not buy a new computer with less than 16 GB, and the next section explains why that decision is more permanent than it used to be.
Storage: solid-state, with room to grow
In my shop, swapping a spinning hard drive for a solid-state drive is the upgrade that makes an old machine feel new again, and it is the main reason a new one feels fast. Do not buy anything in 2026 with a spinning drive as its main drive. As for size, Windows 11 wants 64 GB, which is nothing once photos and updates pile up. My opinion: 512 GB for a family machine, and more if you keep video.
Processor: the generation, not the gigahertz
The clock speed on the box tells you almost nothing on its own. In my experience a newer chip at a lower number is usually the better machine than an older chip at a higher one, so I ignore the gigahertz and look at how recent the chip is. Intel’s current line is Core Ultra with a series number: Series 1 came out in 2023, then Series 2, and Series 3 launched at CES 2026. The series tells you the generation. That number is worth more than the gigahertz.
Everything else
Screen: Windows 11 will run on 720p over 9 inches, but your eyes will not thank you. Get one you can read comfortably. Ports: count what you plug in today and make sure there is a place for each. Graphics: unless somebody in the house games seriously or edits video, the built-in graphics are fine. Battery, keyboard and hinge matter more on a laptop than any number on the sticker, and you can only judge those by handling it.
The one thing you cannot fix later
This is the most important section in this post, and it is the one the store will not tell you.
On most new laptops, the memory is soldered to the board. You cannot add more later. The old advice was to buy the cheaper model and add RAM down the road. On most machines sold today, that road does not exist.
Soldered LPDDR5 and LPDDR5X memory is now standard on most premium thin laptops, on Copilot+ PCs, and on every Apple MacBook. It is not just the expensive ones, either. Budget and entry-level laptops frequently ship with soldered memory too, and those are exactly the machines people buy on the cheap, planning to upgrade later. There is a socketed alternative called LPCAMM2 that can be swapped, but very few laptops use it so far. Assume yours does not unless the spec sheet says so.
Apple takes it a step further. On an Apple Silicon Mac, both the memory and the storage are fixed permanently at the moment you order. Apple charges a steep premium to bump either one, and I understand the temptation to skip it. Don’t. The upgrade price at checkout is the only price there will ever be. A Mac bought with too little memory is a Mac with too little memory for as long as you own it.
Right-to-repair laws are moving in the right direction. California’s SB 244 requires manufacturers to provide service documentation free and to sell replacement parts and repair tools. That helps with batteries, screens and keyboards. It does not unsolder a memory chip. No law will.
My rule: buy the memory and storage you will need in year four, not year one. On a soldered machine you are choosing once. Choose for the whole life of the computer.
Laptop or desktop?
Buy the shape that matches how you actually use it, not the one that looks better on the shelf.
A desktop wins on almost everything except carrying it. You get more computer for the money, it is easier to repair, the memory and storage are usually upgradable, and it does not have a battery that wears out or a hinge that cracks. For a home office, a homework machine, or a business front desk, a desktop is my default recommendation. As a dad of four, I also like a desktop in a room everyone walks through. It is easier to see what is on the screen.
A laptop wins when it has to travel, and for a lot of people that is the deciding factor. Just go in knowing that a laptop is where the soldered-memory problem bites hardest, where batteries fade, and where a single drop can end it. Buy it with the memory you will need, treat it like the fragile thing it is, and back it up.
If you are on the fence, a small desktop with a decent monitor will outlast the laptop and cost less to keep running. If you already know you need a laptop, go back and read the section above one more time before you shop.
Is refurbished a good idea?
Yes, from the right seller. Refurbished does not mean broken. It usually means returned, off-lease, or open-box, then tested and resold with a warranty. Some of the best values I see are business-grade machines coming off corporate leases, because those were built to be serviced.
The warranty is how you tell a real refurbisher from somebody flipping junk. Microsoft Store Certified Refurbished Surface devices carry a 12-month hardware warranty. Amazon Renewed covers most items for 90 days from the day you receive it, and Renewed Premium extends that to 365 days. Those are published guarantees you can hold someone to. A listing with no warranty at all is not refurbished; it is used, and it should be priced that way.
- Buy from a seller with a written warranty of at least 90 days, and longer is better.
- Check the memory and storage before you buy. Everything I said about soldered parts applies double here, because you cannot configure a refurbished laptop at order time.
- Make sure it will run Windows 11. A refurbished machine that fails the TPM 2.0 or processor check is a Windows 10 machine with an expiration date.
- Bring it by for a diagnostic when it arrives if you want a second set of eyes on a machine you did not see in person.
What to skip at the register
Some days the computer is the cheap part of the transaction. Here is what I would leave on the counter.
The extended warranty
Consumer Reports looked at 36,919 non-Chromebook laptops its members bought between 2013 and 2018 and found that only 15 percent of the PC-laptop buyers who paid for an extended warranty ever used it. That is the whole argument. The store makes good money on these because most people never file a claim. Put that money toward more memory instead. You will use that every day.
The antivirus subscription
A new PC usually ships with a McAfee or Norton trial, and when it expires the pop-ups will tell you that you are unprotected. You are not. Windows already includes Microsoft Defender, and in AV-TEST’s May and June 2026 evaluation on Windows 11, Defender scored a perfect 6.0 out of 6.0 for protection and 17.5 out of 18 overall. Let the trial expire, uninstall it, and make sure Defender is turned on. That is what I recommend.
Identity-theft protection add-ons
These get pitched hard at checkout. Be skeptical. In 2015 the Federal Trade Commission obtained a $100 million settlement from LifeLock over deceptive claims about its identity-theft protection. The protection I actually recommend is unique passwords, two-factor sign-in on your email and bank, and a credit freeze. None of that is sold at a register.
The bloatware, once you get home
This one is not an upsell, but it comes with the box. The UK consumer group Which? has tested 275 new laptops in its lab since August 2023 and found most shipped with pre-installed software nobody asked for. The most common item was Microsoft Teams, on 73 percent of them. Trial apps, game launchers and vendor utilities slow down a brand-new machine before you have opened a single file. Part of a proper setup is removing all of it.
Which brings me to the store’s own setup service. Sometimes it is worth it, and sometimes it is a technician clicking through the same screens you would. What I do for $350 flat is different: unboxing, Windows set up in your name, every update run, the bloatware gone, the printer and Wi-Fi working, and everything moved off the old machine so you can sit down and go. That is on the same pricing page as everything else, and there are no contracts, ever.
One honest note for households on my home computer care plans: the Whole House plan is $79 a month, and after your first three months on it, it includes one of those new-computer setups each year. It does not roll over. That only makes sense if you are actually buying a computer that year, so do not sign up for the setup alone. If you are already on the plan and shopping, use it.
🖥️ Not sure whether yours is done or just neglected?
That's what the $30 diagnostic is for — I'll tell you plainly which it is, and it comes off the bill if you go ahead with the work. If it really is time to replace it, I'll say so, and I can set the new one up and move everything across for $350 flat. No contracts, ever. Serving Valdosta, Hahira, Quitman, Adel, Tifton and Moultrie.
📞 229-561-1674 ·
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Frequently Asked Questions
Will my Windows 10 computer stop working?
No. Windows 10 reached end of support on October 14, 2025, and Microsoft says those PCs keep working. What stops is security updates and technical support. You can enroll in Microsoft’s Extended Security Updates program, which runs through October 12, 2027 and is free if you sync your settings to a Microsoft account, to keep the security patches coming while you decide.
How much RAM do I need in 2026?
16 GB. Microsoft’s official Windows 11 minimum is 4 GB, but its own Copilot+ PC label requires 16 GB, and that is the number I would trust. Because the memory is soldered on most thin new laptops and every Apple Silicon Mac, you cannot add more later. Buy the amount you will need in a few years, not the amount that gets you out the door cheapest.
Is it worth fixing an old computer?
Usually, yes. If it boots and the hardware is sound, a cleanup or a solid-state drive brings most older machines back for far less than replacing them. It stops being worth it when the hardware is failing, when it cannot run the software you need, or when the repair would cost more than the computer is worth. My $30 diagnostic tells you which, and it is credited toward the repair.
Do I need to buy antivirus for a new computer?
No. Windows includes Microsoft Defender, and in AV-TEST’s May and June 2026 Windows 11 evaluation it scored 6.0 out of 6.0 for protection and 17.5 out of 18 overall. The McAfee or Norton trial that came in the box can expire without leaving you exposed. Uninstall it, confirm Defender is on, keep Windows updated, and be careful what you click.